There are
three reasons you lose a tailor:
1. They die
2. You run out of money to employ said
tailor
3. The tailor messes up and you sack him
Toby Luper
has been at the helm of Hemingway Tailors for over 6 years. No messing up there
then. A self-confessed perfectionist, Toby has been in business for 40 years
and the family business, Hemingway, invented the first Gortex raincoat in 1981.
How’s that for fashion pedigree?
He hand crafts
bespoke (this literally means the cloth is spoken for) suits for ladies and
gents, has clients as far flung as Russia and Canada and has designed and
registered tartans.
The best thing I found about Toby (from a female
perspective) is that he hand makes shirts. You heard me – he hand makes shirts. If you are of the slightly buxom build then
buying a shirt off the peg from the Great British High Street will ultimately
leave you feeling uncomfortable and exposed. The awful stretching of material
across the chest, the slight flash of a bra beneath and the
puckering of the cloth under the arms where the strain is evident all point to
a sartorial choice poorly made. So you are left with two choices: constantly pull the shirt down in the vain
hope the gap will close leaving you free to get on
with your job (doesn't work) or layering up (which certainly doesn't work in
summer). You can almost hear the badly fitted shirt screaming as it is pulled
taut “I wasn't made for this!!”
Well, it’s a good job Toby’s shirts
are: made-to-measure perfection. It’s a bit off the wall but this is what the Alternative
Christmas Gift Guide is all about! All shirts
can be personalised with your own initials sewn onto the cuff, breast or bottom
and prices start from just £165. And with each client’s personal
style carefully reflected in the end product it is no small wonder that Toby
proclaims, “ I'm not
just fitting their body, I'm fitting their mind.”
So back to
1, 2 ,3. Having met Toby, I think there is plenty of life in the well-seasoned
tailor yet, taking care of option number 1. So as long as you have plenty of
money to avoid option 2, I don’t think you’ll need to worry about number 3.
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